May Crosses and Festival of ,,Mayos“, Cruces de Mayo y Fiesta de los Mayos

At the beginning of the month in Alhama de Murcia they decorate the crosses and build "Mayos" - compositions of straw figures. All the residents dress in a "corremayo" costume, similar to jesters and merrily jingle and clink on the streets.

Alhama de Murcia is a village with only over 21 thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the Guadalentín Valley, in the Region of Murcia. Normally, you would climb to the 12th-century Arab castle that used to be part of the border fortifications, have iced coffee and disappear in the distance.

But in May, in Alhama they celebrate two festivals. Originally unrelated, but today they inherently belong together and sometimes are referred under one title. These are the MAY CROSSES (decorating of crosses) and the FESTIVAL OF ,,MAYOS” (building of "Mayos"). Various complementary activities (exhibitions, culinary competitions, folklore festival ...) take place before and after them, but the best is to visit the village at such a time that you can catch both major events.

May Crosses are related to the legend according to which in the fourth century; the Emperor Constantine dreamt that he would win the battle with the help of the cross. Thereby, he ordered his soldiers to build a large one and put it at the front of the troops. After the victory, he converted to Christianity and began to build Christian churches.

Then he sent his mother, Saint Helena, to Jerusalem to search for the cross on which Jesus died. She found three, but only one of them miraculously healed the sick and brought the dead back to life. She declared it the True Cross, took it to her homeland and died praying for all Christians to worship it even after her death.

The first reference to the festivity in Alhama dates back to 1924. The Crosses of May are officially celebrated on the 3rd of May, but it is always better to check the date because it can vary. In the morning people decorate, early in the evening the members of jury walk around the streets and choose winners. Participants compete in three categories (individual, collective and children). However, in Alhama it is not just about the flower decoration as in many other cities, but rather creating something like an altar or a family chapel in a garden, courtyard or street. Decorating has precise rules:

The basis of the scene is a light blue or pink fabric representing the sky; also lace, embroidered blankets, scarves and other white textile over which the cross rises. As a decoration, objects of religious significance serve, such as rosary, candlestick, pictures of saints, scapular (amulet consisting of two rectangular pieces of cloth which may bear religious images or a prayer), as well as pictures of deceased family members. A bowl of white or yellowish sprouts (germinated in the darkness) is mandatory. Very significant part is the double-armed cross of Caravaca de la Cruz, small town in the same region. It should look like freshly bathed, because it symbolizes the blessed water that cleans and protects. Oil lamps were once used to represent light and the path to spirituality, but they were replaced by candles. Another important element are scissors, stuck in a pear. I need to explain that Spanish word pero can be translated both "pear" and "but". Apparently, this fruit piece means that the scissors can cut not only a fruit, but also "but", for example, in the sentence, "She is very nice, but ..." There is also a lot of flowers.

The origin of the Festival of Mayos is lost in time; the first evidence about it goes back to the 1920s. During the civil war it did not take place because of its critical character and eventually fell into oblivion. In 1982, however, the City Council decided to recover the festivity and it was such a success that in 2018 it has been declared of National Tourist Interest.

The ,,Mayos” are the groups consisting of at least three life-sized straw dolls (called ”mayo” or “pelele”) placed on the streets. They depict scenes from life, old customs and professions, but also satirize current problems. The figures are made ​​of fabric stuffed with straw, leaves or wool and have human features painted on the faces, their hair is of wool. They are dressed in old clothes, but if it is a historical scene, puppets must be in the traditional costumes. Each one has a signboard with a message – a satirical explanation of the scene written in verse or a sentence that helps people understand who they are parodying. In historical scenes, archaic language is used

The jury then awards prizes for the best, the most traditional, the most original and the most critical Mayo. Children have their own category so that they can learn the traditions.

In the afternoon of the first day, the plantada is held - families, friends and neighbourhood associations begin to install their pieces of art on the streets, squares and parks. They may work all night, but have to finish no later than at 10 am the next day. Then the jury will have a look at them and afterwards all the other people, curious to see the competition. The "Mayos" stand on the streets until the evening so that tourists can see them too. Alhama de Murcia turns into a theatre stage, here and there reminding an ethnographic museum.

In 1984, they added to the festivity an original character called corremayo (loosely translated as a Walker around the Mayos). Actually, everybody can become a corremayo - just put on a jester costume with bells. A group of brightly coloured jokesters visits all the straw dolls and merrily jingle and clink.

Since 2004, the City Council appoints the Chief Corremayo (Corremayo Mayor). It is a man or a woman who had mostly contributed to the promotion of the tradition. In the evening in the square Plaza de la Constitución, the mayor of Alhama has a solemn speech in which he describes the merits of the selected person in a flowery style, recalling an ancient language, and officially entrusts him or her with the temporary public office.

This is followed by a firework display and by pasacalle, the night parade of corremayos. There are more of them from year to year, it is one of the highlights; just imagine eight thousand jesters accompanied by music; singing, dancing, hopping and clinking!

After the parade, there is a table with small refreshment - dried fruit, cheese, salami and wine; and then everyone is free to do till the morning whatever he wants to do.

I had one day for Alhama this time, so I only saw the Festival of Mayos.

The village was small, but cheerful. The colourful costumes weren’t worn just by a few people, but by everybody, both children and adults. Some put on a perfect imitation, some just a symbolic diamond vest or a blouse with bells. The man selling the flashy clothes in the stand could not complain; he was really busy. Everyone was clinking and ringing!

In front of the tourist information centre was a long, long queue, they were selling a decorative pin of the festivity and all the locals wanted to display it proudly on their chest. So I went to see the Mayos without a map. No problem, straw dolls were everywhere: sitting on a bench, leaning against the door, but also sewing, ironing, hoeing vegetable garden... Unfortunately, a lot of signboards with explanation were impossible to understand, especially when the aims were local politicians. But I guess they were funny, because people from Alhama laughed loudly and made selfies with them...

I took a free tourist train and visited also some more distant Mayos, but I think the best ones were in the centre.

There was a craft market in La Cubana park, where I discovered that crochet toys made a comeback. I bought a brooch with bells and tasted one of the home made cake.

Meanwhile, another jolly parade of corremayos was visiting all the Mayos and May crosses (yes, there were still on the streets), accompanied by brass bands and cuadrillas, folk music groups. I met them at the end when they headed for lunch together in the open air. While the chefs tried to stir the gigantic paella for the last time, the corremayos stood in line. To be honest, seeing so many brightly coloured jesters jingling and tinkling was for me probably greater experience than all the Mayos!

After siesta, cuadrillas reappeared in the streets, spreading a good mood. They played and sang soulfully and people join them and danced in the shadow of the trees...

I didn´t manage to see more, I had to run to the bus to Murcia, where I slept. The city was beautifully decorated with spring flowers. And probably also these two pigeons knew that May is the time of love :)

Moreover, at the restaurant La Torre de las flores, I got a local specialty freebie, the paparajote. It is a lemon leaf fried in a sweet pastry; you don’t eat a leaf but it gives the dessert a flavour...

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