The Patios festival / Fiesta de los Patios
The most famous courtyard of Cordoba has its own postcard. You probably know it from that joke: "I'm going on holiday, could you water my flowers?" (On the picture there are approximately millions of pots hanging on the wall :)
High temperatures and dry climate forced Cordoba inhabitants already in the Roman times to build rooms around the courtyard that became the center of their home. There is a shadow and the plants add the moisture to the air, therefore it provides a pleasant shelter for a nap or a glass of wine. Especially in the hot summer nights - it was a beginning of May but it was already much warmer here than in the coastal town of Malaga.
The owners decorated them with mosaic, ceramics, fountains, old earthenware pots and finally the patios began to live their own lives. Someone realized it was a shame to hide these treasures behind the bars, thereby they decided generously open them up for few days so that people from all over the world can enjoy their beauty too. The Patios festival, the Festival of Courtyards began in 1918 and then in 2012, it was declared a part of the Intangible World Heritage by UNESCO.
Maybe you have seen that picture of the walls covered with thousands of flowerpots, accompanied with the text: "I'm going on holiday, could you water my flowers?" This photo is definitely from Cordoba, because that's exactly what it looks like. The man, who had 1400 pots on the walls (and his own postcard!), told us that watering takes him from two to four hours.
Suddenly I understood why they have in Cordoba the statue of a woman watering potted plants with a cane!
There were about sixty open patios, I got the map and went to see them. Some houses have been standing there for centuries and it seemed that no one was living behind the iron gates, but when I entered, the flowers were freshly watered and the air smelt nice of jasmine or orange flowers... The fountain silently burbled, the rose petals floated on its surface. Old amphoras and baskets with climbing plants hung over my head and the long leaves of the fern whispered softly. The walls were adorned with pictures and painted plates, on the table there were little bowls, vases, ceramic animals and other gadget. The pavement was created of black and white stones arranged in patterns. Sometimes there was a big palm and of course, more vases and flower pots on the ground and water well. The budgies cage was almost invisible in the flood of buganvilias and purple bellflowers competed with pink hydrangeas, who makes more beautiful window frame. Every courtyard is a work of art and the previous generations contributed to its charm, the knowledge of how to care for the patios is passed down over the centuries. Flower-lovers invest a lot of energy into maintaining their miniature oases, not only for love of the tradition but because they want to enjoy them all year round. Many of them already won prizes in the previous years and proudly exposed them on the walls.
The most spectacular patios were situated in the San Basilio district, such a pity that due to a siesta they were closed from 2 pm to 6 pm. However, I appreciated at least the one in my hotel. I sat down in the wooden armchair, read the fashion magazines and enjoyed a pleasant shade... until I fell asleep.
The Cordobians clearly love the plants, there are also many streets in the city decorated with flowers; the most famous is Calle de las Flores. The gardens of the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (the Palace of the Christian kings) are breathtaking, there are always different flowers blooming according to the season. (In the evening, don’t forget to see the amazing music and light and musical fountain show, it is bloody romantic...)
The Patios festival lasts only two weeks, then the flowers dry - but don’t worry, the holidays in Cordoba are not over. Soon, Feria de Mayo begins ...
See also:
The Battle of Flowers, Cordoba
The May Crosses festival, Cordoba
Virgen de Linares pilgrimage, Cordoba
Photo gallery
14 Days
