The Rose Festival, Празникът на розата

The once poor region, known mainly for the production of Kalashnikov, is today the major supplier of rose oil to the world markets. Aromatic essence from the Rose Valley is three times more expensive than gold!

When I landed after midnight at Sofia airport; the hotel car I had booked in advance wasn't waiting for me. I needed to exchange money and order a cab. Woman in the booth was very reluctant and didn't make the best impression. I was hungry, angry and tired. Bulgarian services are horrible, this is going to be a hell of a trip, I thought.

Fortunately, at the end, everything was completely different.

The car was waiting, but in another parking lot. In the hotel, they welcomed me with a smile and pastries. As there was a problem with information, in the morning the receptionist checked my train to Kazanlak (at 3 pm); but 30 minutes later, when I was walking around Sofia, my cell phone rang: a girl with initiative called the station and learned that there was a special connection on Friday, at 5 pm, which meant that I had more time for the capital. Wow, that was nice!

On my return, a taxi was already waiting for me, but I made a strategic mistake. For some reason, I was convinced that the train would leave from the station Sofia North. When the chauffeur left, I found myself in a miniature, desolate house in the middle of the fields. On the right, there was a closed window; on the left, something like a socialist buffet, full of regulars in tracksuits. I felt like I was back in time. I desperately banged on the window and when finally a hag appeared, she informed me that the train would leave from the central station and shut the window again.

What now?! I had 29 minutes to move in time and space, but there were no taxis, no buses, nothing; I was frantically running back and forth with my suitcase. Finally, I decided to run towards civilization until I arrived at the bus stop. Before I managed to orientate myself, a car stopped by me. A man had his friend get out of the car and I took the chance and with a horrible mixture of Slovak, Russian and English tried to explain to him that I need to catch a train. He quickly understood the situation, waved me to get on and set off like Fittipaldi. Thank God, the central station wasn't far away. He drove me to the door, refused to accept even a contribution for a beer, wished me a happy journey and left.

At the ticket office, they let me jump the queue; I paid and ran to the platform. I jumped into the coach - and the door closed, the train began to move. That was close!

Bulgaria is called Country of roses and its fragrant heart is the town of Kazanlak. There are several versions of how this beautiful flower got into the country.

According to the first, it was brought by the soldiers of Alexander the Great, returning from Kashan in Persia through Syrian Damascus. The local climate suited it better than the original conditions, the roses contained high percentage of oil, but less paraffin (a component that solidifies when the oil is left in cooler temperature), and so it was of better quality.

According to another version, the Rosa damascena was born in Damascus, Syria; and it was brought to Bulgaria by the Turkish merchants in the 17th century, when Bulgaria was part of the Ottoman Empire. In Turkish, the distillation cauldron is called "kazan" and Kazanlak means ,,a place with many cauldrons”.

Bulgarian scientists assume that the cultivation of the queen of the flowers in the region began around 1420; according to them a Turkish judge brought it from his famous gardens in Tunisia.

But I like more the legend I read at the unique local Museum of Roses: Once upon a time, 400 years ago, a wealthy merchant lived in Damascus. There was such a beautiful bush blooming in his courtyard that his daughter every morning woke the buds with kisses and whispered them about her girlish desires. One day a young man with eyes blue like mountain lakes came with her father's caravan, and the girl understood he was the man of her dreams. The merchant rewarded him richly for merchandise, but he received the most precious reward from his daughter. Early in the morning before departure, she came to him and, crying, she handed him a branch with a rosebud. She pressed her lips against the opening flower and said, “I can't go with you, but I am giving you my love with this kiss. It will bloom every spring as a reminder of the two of us. Goodbye. "

The young man hid the branch on his heart and planted it in his home, in Kazanlak. Here the rose, shielded by the hills and drinking crystal clear water, bloomed beautifully every year and gradually spread throughout the valley and gave it its name.

The world-famous Rose Valley is located in the central part of Bulgaria. It is surrounded by two mountains - Stara Planina and Sredna Gora, which protect it from cold winter winds. Other factors contributing to a specific climate are air humidity and frequent light rainfall in May and June. Mild weather, especially in spring; soft sunshine, humid winds and chilly nights create perfect conditions for roses and distillation of high quality oil.

The flowering period is long, but the oil does not evaporate and due to the low temperatures, volatile aromatic ingredients are not released from the flower. Rose bushes need warm days, cool nights and morning dew. In this unique climate and a sand-clay soil, over time, a Damascus rose developed into a completely new variety, called Kazanlak rose.

The average altitude of the valley is 350 metres; it is 10 to 12 kilometres wide and 95 km long; it covers an area of approximately 3,300 square kilometres. The centres of the rose industry are the villages of Kazanlak, Karlovo, Kanchevo, Rozevo, Pavel Banja and Razhena. This is where the world's best rose oil is produced (and you can buy it in those typical wooden vials); but did you know that it is three times more expensive than gold? So, of course, since 1903, the queen of flowers has its own festival. Every year, during the first weekend of June, Kazanlak comes alive with a market, but the event also includes concerts, folklore festival, exhibitions, wine tasting, parade and "ritual" picking flowers.

Kazanlak is a small village in the middle of nowhere; it took us three hours to get there and the last stretch led between the rose and lavender fields, ready to bloom.

There were no taxis in front of the station, and when I asked the elderly lady about them, she said they had to be ordered in advance and offered me a ride with her. She didn't let me contribute; she wished me a pleasant stay and waved me until the taxi disappeared around the corner. People were surprisingly nice!

My hotel was located near the centre; it was properly decorated for the festival and smelled of roses. The festivities already began; the streets were flooded with craft stalls, offering mainly products of the celebrated flora. As the first one, I bought a rose headband, almost a "compulsory" accessory (although it made me look like a Barbie over the hill : )

In the central square, they just elected and crowned the Queen Rose, who will represent the freshness and beauty of the flower for the next three days. They opened the International Folklore Festival and at the end fireworks lit up the sky…Then I ran to the hotel, because unlike in Sofia, where the nights were hot, here the evening got very cold.

The next day I went by taxi to Kanchevo, one of the villages where they organized a traditional rose picking ritual for curious tourists. It is only 10 kilometers away, the road led between the plantations. Imagine long lines of 1.5 meter tall shrubs, resembling vineyards. Nature was just waking up; a whitish haze still perched on the mountains in the background. The gentle pink flowers were covered with the drops of night rain, but they yet smelled intoxicatingly and a sweet aroma flooded the entire valley… I felt like I was in a fairytale.

Harvesting takes only 20-25 days from mid-May to mid-June. More than 2000 people are needed to work, because all the roses must be picked by hands and carefully placed one by one in the willow baskets (the willow doesn't absorb the dew of the petals), which are then transported to the processing plant. The picking starts at 4 am in the morning and ends at 10, people work "until the flowers shine in dew" - at that time the oil yield is highest. The petals collected in the afternoon contain up to 50% less rose oil concentrate. Traditionally, it is more of a work for delicate female fingers. Following a tradition, pickers tuck the first flower behind their ears and then set off to work.

I came among the first, but the villagers were ready. The photogenic and English-speaking part of the population was dressed in folk costumes; girls had full makeup and flowers in their hair. They greeted everybody with a big smile. Older women strung rose necklaces, the young men offered to taste rose wine (fie) and sweets (yummy).

But as the sun rose, more and more tourists were coming, also several buses full of Japanese. (I read that in the Land of the rising sun they named June 2 in honour of this holiday The Day of the Rose!). That wouldn't be a problem, but everyone longed for the original picture, and so they were chasing after locals all over the field. Children and women of all ages posed by the bushes; with a basket and with flower wreaths. The most demanding were people from German television, they drove girls into the field and let them exercise like dressage horses: "Look here, look there; now throw flowers in the air; eins zwei drei!" Whatever the girls thought about it, they didn't show it; with a perfect smile on their lips they let others boss them and did everything the photo-eager public asked them.

All this was a nice treat for tourists, but at one point I realized that in the meantime, far behind; the real pickers in non-photogenic tracksuits and jeans worked. No one took a picture of a grubby woman in rubber boots, with a cigarette in the corner of her mouth and a bag of roses on her back, As if she was in parallel reality...

At 10 o'clock, the locals performed a short show for us - they sang, danced, played their national instruments and explained to us how to pick up flowers correctly. We got baskets and could try it. Meanwhile, a man with a pigtail set a fire under a barrel full of rose petals and a small distillery saturated the air with a distinct scent...

After coffee and cake, I went to the interesting Rose Museum, where I learned about the history of oil production, and then walked through a beautiful rosary (and took pictures of every single rose!). No flower bed was monochromatic, violet flowers alternated with yellow and orange, followed by white and dark violet; I also liked red, burgundy and pink.

Then I finally went to do some shopping at the market. The whole town was decorated, there were roses in the windows, their petals floated even in the fountain, and almost every woman (occasionally also a man) wore a headband of real or artificial flowers.

No wonder the streets with stalls were crowded; this is one of the most remarkable events of Bulgaria and attracts about 40 thousand visitors from all over the world every year. There were artists displaying jewellery; a potter where children could paint their saucers, the owner of a snake and beautiful parrots with whom you could take a picture; a seamstress who hung his tablecloths on the bushes. Wood-carver; bell maker and producer of knitted toys. The winemakers offered to taste not only their proven masterpieces, but also some original, delicious fruit alcoholic beverages.

But, of course, rose products prevailed: day and night creams, body lotions, perfumes, shampoos, balms, lip glosses. But also sweets, jams, honey, candies, chocolates, liqueurs, ice cream and a new hit - rose water, finally officially recognized as a healthy drink that improves digestion and memory, helps to control blood sugar and has antibacterial effects. I confess, the weight of my suitcase on departure confirmed that I bought 5 kilos of cosmetics!!!  : )

And now, finally about the rose oil. The fresh blooms must be transported as quickly as possible to the processing plant, where they are mixed with water in a ratio of 1:4 and then the first distillation takes place. The steam transforms petals and water into a boiling paste, regularly stirred to allow the oil components to float on the surface. After separation, the second distillation is performed to maximize the extraction of the oil. The by-product of this process is known as rose water.

History credits the invention of the process for extracting oil to the Persian scientist, Avicenna in the 10th century, but at the end of the 16th century the Bulgarians perfected the technology by double distillation and their extract soon became known for its first-class quality.

Around 1664, cultivation began in the Rose Valley and the lives of its inhabitants had changed forever. The number of farmers increased; the production process and the quality of the essence that conquered the world improved. After World War II, the government realized the importance of the fragrant material and took measures to further develop the industry. It introduced strict regulations and testing on all rose oil production to ensure stable quality. Tradition became a source of national pride. The once poor region, known mainly for the production of Kalashnikov, is today the major supplier of rose oil to the world markets. In 2014, the European Commission approved the adding of the Bulgarian rose oil to the Register of Protected geographical indications.

In order to produce 1 kilogram of rose oil, around 3500 kilograms of petals (i.e. about two million flowers) is needed. According to official statistics, Bulgaria exports almost two tons of attar to the world every year and the price can reach up to 7,000 euro per kilo!

It is an essential component of the most luxurious perfumes, but it is also used in the food industry and due to its resistance to temperature changes, even in the space industry as a greasing component in space equipment. It contains more than 300 precious chemical compounds which have a positive effect on the human organism - it relieves pain, removes stiffness of muscles and joints and foot fatigue, has disinfectant effects and helps with colds. Rose oil massage speeds up metabolism and counteracts stress, tension and depression. It is prescribed for the treatment of impotence, sterility, liver and kidney disease, arthritis and rheumatism. It is also used for burns and dry skin problems.

Women appreciate that this liquid gold softens and tightens the skin, removes wrinkles, stimulates cell renewal and helps eliminate cellulite. By the way, the oil in a typical wooden vial with a seal is not a perfume, but a strong concentrate that you can use to prepare homemade cosmetics. It is bought in large quantities by the Turkish women who make their own creams. If you prefer finished products, just add one oil drop to make them smell good.

A drop on your pillow will guarantee you a good night's sleep, and for migraine it is enough to rub your neck and inhale.

I cannot confirm whether my wrinkles have disappeared, but I use all the creams I bought and I am satisfied, I can feel the delicate scent of roses floating around me...

The essential oil from the Rose Valley is highly valued also in Japan, where it is used to produce popular fragrant tablets. Since smell and sweat are an unforgivable social sin in the Land of the rising sun, they do everything to make their body have a pleasant odour. Apparently, after one pill, they smell for a week as fragrantly as a rose; and their duvets and clothes too...

Bulgaria is currently the world's largest exporter, producing more than half of the rose oil. (Although the Turks say something similar; but I visited Bulgaria, so I rely on their information). The secret to their success is to take the boiling cauldron off the hot fire after reaching the boiling point and then continue boiling it on low heat fire; another trick is not to let out any steam because it would decrease the amount of oil.

When the harvest season comes, special commissioners (traders) start to visit the producers and ask about the quantity produced; while the farmers try to find a commissioner who offers them the best price. Oil is measured in a special unit - muskal, 1 muskal is approximately 5 grams. Traders have contacts with perfume companies around the world, and they visit international exhibitions and fairs with rose vials, searching for the one who would pay the most.

There are three grades of attar quality, the best freezes at -20-21 ° C, second quality at -18-19 ° C and the last at -16-17 ° C. There were some attempts in history to sell fake rose oil - diluted with geranium oil, but fortunately, in 1860, British scientists discovered how to distinguish the real rose oil from the fakes by chemical testing.

At 5 pm, the program started in the main square. First appeared the majorettes; small and very small. I finally understood why the Bulgarians were once totally invincible in modern gymnastics; they have an amazing base, perhaps all the local girls were members.

But there were also seniors, probably those former world champions. Some ladies could be over 80 years; they barely walked but managed to perform the whole routine. The choreography was simple, a step here, a step there, and occasionally waving with circles, adorned with roses. Men in this category were represented only by one piece, I don´t know if there were not any available or didn't have the courage... Because in the folklore groups that came after, there were enough of them.

The last part of the programme belonged to the participants of the International Folklore festival. Bulgarian folk dances are very temperamental. I saw ensembles from different regions, from neighbouring countries, and even exotic one from South Korea. The performances were truly amazing. The show was interrupted by rain, but as soon as it changed into drizzle, dancing continued until dark.

Sunday is the most important day of the festival, because the largest parade in Bulgaria takes place. It is a real spectacle.

The city was packed with crowds; more coaches arrived, especially with Japanese groups. However, everything was well organized. I appreciated that the Bulgarians started exactly at 12 am as it was written; knowing from my own experience that in Spain, they would be late by at least an hour.

Many women had rose headbands, hats adorned with rose wreaths or a flower pinned to a dress; some wore a floral dress. Two Japanese girls looked like delicate flower fairies; they were so well-dressed as if they played the main role in the festivity, they were probably preparing for it all year round! They willingly stroke a pose on demand and enjoyed the attention.

At the head of the parade, kukeri (masked dancers, mummers) jumped; ensuring health and fertility and chasing evil spirits away. They came here to promote their own festival which they celebrate in winter. They wore furs, scary masks with horns and large copper bells on their belts and they were constantly bouncing, dancing and clattering. They dragged large kukeri heads that had been previously standing at the square.

The arrival of the Rose Queen was impressive, she was sitting in a coach, pulled by horses and waved to people. She was followed by the representatives of numerous schools with various awards (a commentator named them all), sports and dance associations with trophies, basketball players, footballers, dancers and gymnasts, decorated with kilos of medals - some were so tiny that I couldn't imagine in what category they had won them! The majorettes and folklore groups in their most beautiful national costumes occasionally stopped and performed a short dance to delight the audience. For some reasons, bikers in leather jackets were part of the parade too.

Girls with baskets showered us with rose petals and a car sprayed us generously with rose water, it was very welcomed in such a heat (and I smelled sooo good after!). The road was covered with pink petals, and the Japanese dropped to all fours, taking pictures of the blooms on the pavement, as if they had never seen a rose in their lives before.

The last ensemble pulled people into a circle, and while colourful balloons were flying over our heads, the circle grew and grew until the whole street was singing and dancing ...  Fabulous ending!

After the parade, newly arrived tourists rushed to do shopping in the market stalls. Around the fountain, a squad of merry cleaning ladies was sitting, armed with brooms as before flight to the Sabbath; they also participated in the parade and were introduced as the main heroines of the day – of course, someone will have to clean it up at the end.

At 2 pm, folklore groups performed again on stage; at the end they went down among the audience and made us all dance with them. I was caught by a guy too and we tried to dance in pairs, but the steps were quite complicated, I had to look at my feet and count… and when I lifted my head for a moment, I noticed a camera directed at me. Jesus Christ, if it was shown somewhere in the television, I came out of it very clumsy... : )

In the evening, after the closing ceremony, there was a bit of classical music, followed by the concert of a Bulgarian singer. I don't remember his name, but his show was really enjoyable, both old and young sang with him…

On Monday, when I was leaving the hotel and wanted to pay for the breakfast which I hadn't booked in advance, the old lady just waved her hand: "No need, it is ok; we are happy you liked it here!"

On the train to Sofia, I talked to an American who has been living here for four years and we were on the same mind that the Bulgarians are friendly, open and helpful, at least in Rose Valley.

In Sofia, I took a taxi from the station to the centre and we agreed also on a later transfer to the airport. The man offered me to let my suitcase with him, instead of walking with it all day long. I don´t know if I would do this in another country, but for some reason I was not afraid (maybe because I had only dirty laundry and 5 kilos of cosmetics in my suitcase). In the evening, the man was waiting exactly where I got off that morning. That was a nice farewell, Bulgaria…

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